The Experienced Travelers cross the Seine to the Left Bank to continue our exploration of Paris neighborhoods. (Click to read our post about the Right bank.)
Two arrondissements stand out as Left Bank favourites. The justly popular 5th and 6th arrondissements between Place Maubert and Place St-Germain are perfect bases for first-time visitors or returning fans.
The RER from Charles de Gaulle airport stops at the Place St-Michel, which is convenient for both the 5th and 6th. Emerge from the RER into the Paris morning light and settle at one of the cafes along the Seine for your first café -au-lait.
Oh, dear Readership, my friend Marylynn and I took our first trip to Paris when we were impressionable girls in our 20s. Our one unforgettable Audrey Hepburn evening unfolded in these quartiers, thanks to a charming (and well-behaved) Irish literature student. Arms in arms, we three splashed along the foggy Boulevard Saint-Michel in teeming rain. With our spirits soaring (and coiffures stylishly soaked) we wandered into the wee hours until our Gallic poet gallantly led us to a café table across from Notre Dame, floodlit in the mist. Ah, youth. Let me collect myself and return to our tour.
Among it’s many delights, the 5th arrondissement has your picture-perfect view of Notre Dame, the Pantheon, the rue Mouffetard market and the Sorbonne.
The ETs like to explore streets near the river, like the rues Galande and Maître-Albert where medieval Sorbonne students attended open-air classrooms. Today you can shop the small boutiques and health food stores in the neighborhood and feel justified because you’re learning history. How easy it is for the ETs to find continuous self-improvement from our mercantile inclinations.
Walk away from the busy quai and make the gentle climb up the rue Saint-Jacques hill, past the church of St-Séverin to the rue Soufflot. Stop at the Pantheon where you can visit Foucault’s Pendulum and several French immortels including Victor Hugo.
If you stay here, there are many hotels and restaurants and you won’t be disappointed. It gets quiet at night unless you’re near the Seine or on the Blvd. Saint-Michel. The 5th is centrally located with good transportation, especially along the Blvds. Saint-Germain and Saint-Michel.
- What’s nearby: rue Mouffetard and Maubert markets, 13th century St Julien le Pauvre and it’s lovely square, Shakespeare and Company bookstore, the Pantheon, college life at the Sorbonne, the Roman arena, Jardin des Plantes and the Paris Mosque and yummy couscous.
Just across the Blvd. Saint-Michel from the 5th, the 6th arrondissement has the most expensive real estate in town with an average cost of €11,631 per square meter. (oodles of Found Money needed.) It runs from the incomparable Jardin du Luxembourg to the Seine and over to Melinda’s favourite table at the Café de Flore in the Place Saint-Germain. After all, it’s not just for existentialists anymore.
This convenient quartier has it all, and it’s busy from morning till night. Ambiance, gastronomy, antiques and antiquarian books, Sorbonne student hangouts, upscale boutiques and excellent transportation by bus, metro or RER. It’s no wonder it’s one of the most popular areas for visitors.
You’ll find loads of hotels between the Place Saint-Michel and the rue de Bucci market. No matter where you stay, it’s easy to get a languorous glass of wine on a made-for-watching café terrace, or a quick picnic lunch. If you have just one trip to Paris in you, stay in the 6th and we can recommend the Hotel du Lys.
What’s nearby: Left-bank quais on the Seine, Luxembourg gardens, Louvre, Orsay and Cluny museums, Sorbonne, Place St-Germain, rue de Bucci market, rue de Seine antiques, many, many restaurants and cafes that teem with busy cutlery, and much more.
And so, dear Readership, your choices for a Paris base continue to expand. But there’s more – watch for our overview of the 7th and 15th arrondissements in a later post. Happy travels!